Tuesday, December 11, 2012

Funerals (September 6)


I got up at 6:45, which felt like sleeping in after our schedule for the past week. Jason and I had a quick breakfast (the bananas in Zambia are amazing! Smaller than those in the US, but sweeter and super fresh). We picked Paul up at 8am and headed out to West Chelston, another town on the outskirts of Lusaka. There we met with five women who are volunteers with the home-based care project. The ladies gave me some great responses and were very open about their needs and requests.
 
Me-What is your vision for expanding home-based care over the next year?
Josephine- Our group needs some soap.

The women are polite to the point of being shy. But…only to a point. They usually avoided eye contact, and only some of the women wanted to speak up when I asked questions. But during the interview we had a few instances where no translation was needed and we all laughed.
 
At the end of the interview I thanked them all for their service and said they would be in my prayers. They all said they were thankful I was there, and asked me not to forget their requests and please.

I will indeed remember Josephine, Jenpha, Mary, Eunice and Inice. I hope they remember me, too. I’ll never forget their faces and grateful gestures when I gave each of them a pen from the University Bookstore. They had a ball pronouncing “Wis-CON-sing” with me. I can’t imaging their faces if they ever actually walked into the bookstore…or one of our hospitals.

There’s a very important detail about this day. During the entire interview, we heard women wailing outside. The pastor’s daughter had passed away the night before, and the entire family, church and community were gathering for her funeral. She was in her mid-twenties, and had been sick for a few weeks.

A funeral in Zambia is very tiring and taxing on the family. In addition to dealing with the cultural norms and traditions of funerals clashing with their religious beliefs, they also have to feed and put up anyone who comes. That includes out-of-town family, to whom word travels fast, community members, distant friends and long-lost relatives. In some cases it can be comforting. But often, it’s a burden for these families, who usually feed their families for 20,000 zmk ($5) each week.

The men prepare the burial plot, city paperwork and the casket while the women mourn and wail and keep the guests comfortable. The third day is usually the day of burial, once everyone has gathered. A large procession on foot follows the casket. Men cover the casket with dirt after people share prayers and final memories.  The wailing continues until the entire crowd gets back to the house. Then the crowd disperses and only the closest of kin are left to deal with their recent loss—and expenses. Some relatives stay to help the deceased’s family. The young woman who died had two children, who will now live with the pastor and his wife.

We returned to Lusaka around noon and had some lunch. I tried to email my family and Drew, but the internet was still iffy.

I got to talk to Sheila (Tonga) Chalimba, who is wonderful. So charismatic, smart, kind. She lived in New York for 7 years working with the UN, and she speaks 11 languages! And her English is great, so I could speak normally and freely with her without having to worry about whether I was talking too fast.

That night I made myself a yummy curried rice dinner with local tilapia and vegetables. And I got to email Drew and hop on Facebook for a minute! That felt pretty weird, but it was nice to connect. I started getting a little homesick in this very foreign country. Usually when I’ve traveled I’ve been so busy that I didn’t have time to miss home. But during my evening downtime in Zambia, I did.

I kept thinking about how old my nephew Gavin would be when I’d get to see him next, and hoped he’d like the present I got him in Mfuwe. At 2 months, I can’t see him being too picky about anything :] I got him, Andy and Sara (my brother and sister-in-law), Nicole and my parents gifts from Tribal Textiles, a local place that uses cotton from the Southern province, local waxes and dyes, and all-local labor that supports the nearby community. They make beautiful works of art, from purses to wall hangings to carvings.

Miss you, family!