Thursday, September 27, 2012

Church in Zambia



September 2

I slept peacefully last night. The neighbors' dogs were finally quiet, and  the rooster only squawked once or twice around 3AM. We woke up in the guest house for a quick breakfast before walking to Bethel Lutheran Church, just a few steps down the road from the house. 

The church, a large cement brick structure with unfinished doors and windows is a local project started by members of the congregation who had been gathering for worship in the small seminary chapel for the past 30 years. The church is plain. An altar and reading stand are at the front with white cloths draped over. There are potted tropical-looking plants at the front. 

100-150 plastic lawn chairs are set up in neat lines. People pick them up and move them out of their orderly rows if they see someone they want to sit near. 

The pastor and his wife greeted us warmly, as did many of the choir members and one of the couples from dinner the night before. 

Today's lesson is from Genesis -- "Jacob wrestles with God."

Jacob was a stubborn, arrogant man. He was the kind of man who always wanted to get ahead, no matter what it took. And still, God came all the way to earth and spent a whole night arguing, wrestling and fighting with this stubborn man. Why did he do that? To change Jacob's life.  God made Jacob a new man... but not before dislocating his ankle.

When we are proud or don't put our trust in God, sometimes he has to shake us around a bit to get us to listen. When we don't listen, or when we aren't doing what we should be doing, or when things go wrong and we try to take them into our own hands, that's when God takes the time to change us. 

When nothing is going right for you and you think "Why, God? Why?" It often means that God is wrestling with you to get you to change something about what you are doing. 

So don't wrestle God. Obey him. Be humble. And when you are walking your own way, be thankful when he takes the time to come and fight with you.

The pastor spoke clearly and elegantly, in a meandering way very unlike the preachers at home. In the States  (or at least in the Lutheran Church), pastors seem to follow an outline in their sermons. There's the main passage we're studying. Then they state the three main points, and then go through each one in detail. Then there's a conclusion and a prayer. This style of preaching was more how we think. It was cyclical and process-oriented, and went the directions it needed to go. 

It was very moving. And real. 

Two choirs blessed us with their music today. It was so moving! Their musical tradition is different from ours as well. The pastor announced, "Today our choir will sing us a song." 

The choir stood and sang a song as they danced their way up to the front of the church. Then they all faced the congregation and sang their main song. One woman was so moved that she leaped up and started shouting and dancing. She ran up next to the choir and yelled, "ayi-ayi-ayi-ayi!" as she waved her arms around. Some people in the congregation smiled or chuckled, but from their reactions it didn't seem like this was too out of the ordinary.

Jason also told us that sometimes the sermons tend to get very long here. Where our entire service is usually an hour on the dot (an hour ten if it's a Communion Sunday), here the pastor's speech can be an hour or even an hour and a half! If someone is getting sleepy and starts to nod off, it's acceptable for them to start humming or singing a hymn to wake themselves up. The congregation will quickly join in, and the pastor takes his cue to sit and rest for a bit as well. When the song is done, the pastor returns to the front to continue where he left off.

While I was in Zambia I also noticed the attention span and train of thought is very acute there compared to at home. If I was interviewing a person and asked a question and their phone rang, they would excuse themselves, answer the call and talk for a while (in a language other than English), hand up, and then answer the question. I never heard the phrase, "Where were we?" from a Zambian. Not once. 

The order of service was nearly identical to ours back home, except that this Sunday there was no accompaniment to our singing. It's all a Capella, led by the choir and joined by everyone else. Everyone seemed to know the songs even without a book with words.

Worshiping with these people--complete strangers--was so uplifting. I felt completely welcomed there. Sure, a few little boys and girls stared at me grinning for the entire service. But people treated me like I was supposed to be there. Like I belonged. 

After church we had a quick lunch at the guest house and departed for the airport. 

It's time to go to Mfuwe to start the second leg of our wild adventure!

Tuesday, September 25, 2012

Helicopter Ride!


...a helicopter ride!


We flew over both the Zambian and Zimbabwean sides for an incredible view of Victoria Falls and the Zambezi River, and the snaking gorge which brings water into Zimbabwe. My adrenaline rush lasted a long while, even during the first bit of our 7-hour drive back to Lusaka.

Water floods off the side of the floodplains. This is the water level in the dry season.



Magnitude


Happy to be here!

A rainbow across the falls

What an amazing start to a service-filled trip! Jason Paltzer is an awesome guide from his years of living here in Zambia, and Dand and Vicky have shown immense generosity which is completely humbling. 

Tonight we dined with the WELS missionary couples at a restaurant in Lusaka. I will get to talk with them at length soon, once we are back in Lusaka after the next great adventure.

But first.....

Safari!!

The Falls

Today we woke up  to the screeches, screams and howls of mysterious creatures. 

Pumas, waiting in the trees, I was convinced. Or wild dogs who smell the Clif bar in my pack and can chew through my tent to get it... they'll definitely kill me while they're in here.


Turns out, it wasn't pumas or wild dogs, but baboons jumping through the trees, harassing each other and barking at birds and smaller monkeys. 

Well, they sure sounded scary!

We had a lovely "English" breakfast at the lodge before packing up and beginning our amazing day at Victoria Falls. Right as we were leaving the lodge though, we saw three beautiful elephants eating and drinking in the lagoon about 1/4 from where we were standing by the truck. They were incredible! And although they weren't extremely close to us, I was shocked that they didn't seem to mind that we were there. 


Our first stop was walking around the falls and getting our first look at the world landmark. While Jason went to get us park passes Dan and Vicky Kunz and I guarded the truck from two baboons who, unlike the elephants,  came far too close for comfort! They were eyeing us up like animals that have seen far too many tourists. 

Victoria Falls' baboons are more than a nuisance recently. One woman from the LCCA Mission was pulled down by her backpack and dragged by one. A man was pushed off of the cliffs of the falls after trying to retrieve a bag that was stolen by a baboon. Others get their cameras, backpacks and food stolen regularly. 

This guy means business.

Once we get past the entryway, the Falls were breathtaking! Each new lookout brought an even more spectacular view of the falls, the gorge, the "boiling pot" of churning waters underneath the bridge to Zimbabwe. I couldn't get over the beauty of the water tumbling down 300-foot tall cliffs and plummeting down. This is the dry season, yet we felt mist on our faces from across the entire gorge.

Dan and Vicky Kunz

Me at the falls

A beautiful view on the Zambian side

The bridge to Zimbabwe




 We only had an hour to explore the majesty of Victoria Falls on foot for a first glimpse because we had another adventure in store...



Sunday, September 23, 2012

"Don't be sad."

August 29, 2012

Today at the craft market in Livingstone, the people selling things start all kinds of conversations to try and get you to buy things. 
"Where are you from, miss?"
"The United States."
"Oh! The U.S. and Zambia are good friends."

Then they ask what your name is, and then tell you that "looking is free" and ask you to look at their crafts.

One woman started the standard conversation. Then she asked me for my name. 
"Claire," I said. The woman stared me and started to get tears in her eyes. 

"My only daughter's name was Clara," she said (Zambians often add vowels to the ends of names). "she was my firstborn. She died at 8 months."

She went on to say that she has 4 sons, and that "This is life. Don't be sad. Clara would be 11 by now."

But I am sad. 
This isn't any life I know, and the pain in this stranger's eyes connected in a way I never expected. 




Monday, September 17, 2012

Day 1 - Livingstone

Those "chirps" from last night weren't a security system--they were fruit bats! And they're loud. 
The noise at 4am was the neighbor's rooster...I guess we got lucky that morning, because sometimes he likes to wake up even earlier.

We were in the guest house that night, across from the LCCA campus and in the walled-in yard of Dave and Dee, two Kingdom Workers who work on campus. 

On Day 1 we had a light breakfast before heading out at 6:30am. These days you have to leave Lusaka early to get out before traffic hits. Mass urbanization in a short period of time, combined with only two major roads through the city, results in lots of congestion. The leading cause of death for expatriates in Zambia is... you guessed it... car accidents.

Jason did a great job on the 7-hour drive south to Livingstone. On our way, we saw...
Dozens of goats in the road
6 vervet monkeys
2 big bulls who made us stop in our tracks
Farmers selling potatoes, tomatoes, bananas, maize
People selling baskets, chairs, charcoal, clothing
Thousands of people biking or walking to the nearest city, often 40 km away from home

We stopped in Choma to eat lunch and visit a cultural museum that focused on the Tonga people of southern Zambia. After stretching our legs for a bit we continued on to  Livingstone. 
Funeral rite materials at the cultural museum in Choma (above) 


We arrived around 2pm and ventured into a craft market where I got some gifts for family and friends, and a chitengi for myself (a chitengi is a 2-yard piece of cloth that can be wrapped around to make a skirt...something I found VERY handy later on the trip). Then we checked into our lodge, the Maramba River Lodge, which is right along the Zambezi River. After getting changed, we went on an incredible sunset boat cruise on the Zambezi.

 At the departure spot for the cruise, they urged us not to feed the vervets, which were jumping in the trees overhead. Apparently they're like Zambia's squirrel, only much bigger!

Please...

The boat, complete with dinner and drinks (and a perfect view)
We saw several pods of hippos on the boat cruise. They would grunt and bellow, but mostly minded their own business. One is yawning in the photo below.

A hippo yawning

Sunset over the Zambezi

Sunset over the Zambezi
The sunset was absolutely beautiful, and immediately after we got to see the moon rising to the east. Back at the dock, we saw vervet monkeys from tree to tree! I never got "used" to seeing such wild things. 

Back at Maramba Dan and Vicky Kunz, Jason Paltzer and I had a few Mosi (a lager made here in Zambia) while ducking the fruit bats and spotting small lizards that were dashing along the cobblestones. Later, we heard a low, loud rumble. 
A lion?
A hippo?

Then, out from the  trees across the shallow bay, we saw a mother and baby elephant walk out and start making their way toward our shore. What a sight! They ate and drank from the water, their tusks gleaming in the light of the full moon. We watched them for about 15 minutes, standing just a quarter mile away from these huge animals, until noise from the lodge restaurant sent them back into the woods. 

After that we all retired for the night to our luxury tents, below. Each one had a lamp and nightstand, and a cozy little bed. I slept more soundly that night knowing what more of the noises were. 
Our luxury tents at Maramba. Roughing it with hippos, baboons, elephants, and fruit bats






Chicago, Amsterdam, Lusaka

August 28-29
After a few days well spent in Chicago, I headed to the airport to begin this incredible journey!

Check-in went very smoothly; a great way to start foreign travels (and pretty abnormal for me). Amanda Paltzer met up with me around 2:15pm, and we got to visit for a while before boarding the giant KLM aircraft. 

The 7 1/2-hour  leg had us take off at 4pm our time. I slept from 6-10:30pm and switched my watch over. We have just an hour of our flight left before a 6:35am arrival in Amsterdam... 

Currently: 37,000 feet above Dublin

------

Our layover in Amsterdam was well spent looking at famous paintings in a mini Rijksmuseum  (in the airport), finding little clogs and tulips everywhere, and passing the time. I was just excited to be on my way--out of familiar Europe and into Africa!

I now understand the difference between an 8-hour flight (which I've done quite a few times now) and a 10-hour flight immediately following. It feels infinitely longer, and with 3 hours left I found myself thinking, "We're almost there!" I was also reminded of all the luxuries we have being on just two planes to get all the way to Lusaka, not to mention the means and opportunity to get all the way to Zambia. I feel truly blessed. Groggy, but blessed =)

We arrived safely and on time in Lusaka, just in time to go to sleep after a long few days of travel. 

As I went to sleep I heard tons of noises. Dogs barking, some strange thing chirping? Beeping? It sounded like a security system, only more...animal. I slept very lightly that first night.

We're in Africa!